An Overview of 1989
In 1989 the people of Vietnam were in worse condition than they had been in 1970-71. The South where the rice grew was better off than the industrial north where factories and heavy equipment had been bombed. The ethnic Chinese merchants in Cholon had not been permitted to leave because they knew how the economy worked but their businesses and bank accounts had been seized by Communist Party leaders (hereafter called The Party) who knew early Soviet doctrine.
Farms had been collectivized and had failed. Farmers grew enough rice to feed their families and no more. Vietnam, whose major export other than people had been rice, had to import rice to save people from starvation. By 1988, Vietnam’s economy had almost collapsed. The only bank in Vietnam had run out of money. The post office had stamps but no glue. The government, unable to pay government agencies, gave the agencies businesses, hotels and factories, to operate for income.
In 1989, Hanoi permitted petite capitalism by the people and anyone who could buy a pack of cigarettes sold them to those who could afford only one cigarette at a time. Those who had woks built small contained fires on the sidewalks and sold food, one bowl of rice, one piece of chicken at a time. Along the highway water was sold by the barrel for overheated trucks. In the Hai Van Pass wedges chopped from trees were sold for chocks to prevent disabled vehicles from rolling downhill.
I returned to Vietnam five years later, 1994. The embargo had been lifted and Vietnam looked like a nation reborn. Farmers could lease land from the government and grow rice to feed their family and sell the surplus to the government or a private buyer, whichever paid more. People had jobs producing knock-off Chinese products.
Citizens could put money in the bank but they could not earn interest on it. Many of them bought hard currency like US dollars or precious metals and jewels and buried them inside dirt-floored hootches or outside after dark. Under the embargo it was illegal to sell US dollars to Vietnam. The Vietnamese dong was worthless outside of Vietnam creating a blackmarket in dollars.
The jungles and roadside vegetation that had been destroyed by Agent Orange had regrown. Helmets, a variety of barbed wire, unexploded ordnance including 250 pound bombs, perforated steel plates (psp) and other bits of metal that had been stacked for sale outside most hootches in 1989 were gone, transformed by industry.
Many people know little and want to know little about Vietnam.
Others want to wipe it from their memories but the war will not die and continues in films, news reports, books including history, biography, autobiography, fiction and memoir. And in minds until a smell, a sound, a word brings it back in all its horror and heroism. Everyone who was touched by the war, including those who opposed it, still carry the mark. And you don’t go home again.
Some want to travel to Vietnam to see it, smell it, touch it so that their father, their husband, their sweetheart, their son is more than a name on The Wall. Some go there to see it or re-see it in oder to come to a separate peace. I did that in 1989, but I still haven’t come home. Not to the country I left. Or maybe it is my eyes that have changed.
With the collapse of the Cuban Missile Crisis so did one nation indivisible. After Appomattox, the Rebels had gone home but not all had surrendered. Some had fought a rearguard terror campaign with bullets, ballots, bombs and separate but equal delaying liberty and justice for all since 1865. Others, with a longer view, realized they had to infiltrate local, state and the federal government and sabotage it from within. When the Civil Rights and the Voting Rights Acts became possible the neo-rebels had a voice and money and political power, even in the Supreme Court, to prevent or roll back those acts and integration to return America to white Christian male dominance.
The Other War in Vietnam
In 1970, I rode in a guntruck escorting a truck convoy carrying supplies from Camp Baxter in Da Nang to Camp Eagle near Phu Bai. The guntruck had a white crew manning two .50 caliber machine guns, two M60 machine guns and an M79 grenade launcher called a “blooper” because of the sound it made when fired.
Their driver had been killed in an ambush in the Hai Van Pass the previous day and his life’s blood was still in the cab. The gunners had spent the night mounting the second fifty. They believed in fifties the way they believed in Playboy and rock and roll. A fifty could turn a rock into a pile of gravel around a Charlie with an RPG.
I climbed into the bed of the truck with the gunners. The bed had armor plating; the cab did not.The gunners were on edge and surly. None of them spoke to me. They were still in their protective zone where everything outside their zone might need killing. The lieutenant (LT) in command of the guntruck and the convoy was black. He gulped from a carton of milk. He said he had nothing in his stomach but milk since the driver was killed.
Camp Eagle was their base and the LT invited me to sleep in his hootch which meant a stained cot with no bedding and no pillow. The other officers, all white, welcomed him back with an enthusiasm that surprised me. “Am I glad to see you”. “Our brother is back.” “I can sleep tonight.”
“They think this hootch won’t be fragged as long as I’m in it,” the black LT said. “I hope they’re right”.
The next day two sergeants from the Public Affairs Office (PAO) took me by Jeep to Quang Tri to join a similar guntruck in a convoy to a firebase on the DMZ. There was an armored car, a half track and another guntruck defending the supply trucks. We were “tail end Charlie”. If a supply truck was hit or broke down we were to stand by it until a mechanic could fix it or a bobtail could drag it to the firebase.
The firebase was an isolated outpost with eight inch cannons that fired interdictory fire across the DMZ at suspected PAVN movement or concentration. They also fired in support of US infantry in the jungle below them that were seldom seen but were supposed to prevent VC or NVA from overrunning the artillery men who had little training or equipment for self-defense.
(PN: I use PAVN to designate North Vietnamese soldiers in large units in North Vietnam and NVA to distinguish North Vietnamese soldiers who have infiltrated and fight in South Vietnam. VC are guerrillas. Some have been trained in the North but most died in the Tet Offensive in 1968. After Tet the VC were not as well trained or led.)
The two PAO sergeants were to arrange interviews with selected personnel at the firebase. They wanted me to write a story about a white Master Sergeant whose men were trying to kill him. When we were safely inside the wire of the firebase they led me to his hootch. I was scarcely inside his hootch when something hit the roof. I hit the deck fearing it was a grenade. The MSgt. laughed at my innocence. It was a rock thrown by a trooper to remind him that it was as dangerous inside the wire as outside.
Inside the wire the troops were close to refighting the Civil War. Most of the “lifers” were white like Sarge and the Confederate battle flag of resistance flew from their hootches. Most of the African Americans (AAs) were draftees and they raised fists and shouted “one for the man and then the Revolution”. Vietnam would teach them how to fight a guerrilla war and back in the world they would demand their religious and civil right to be equal creations made in the image of God. That revolution never happened because of Martin Luther King, Jr. and others who believed in nonviolent insistence. That war continues.
At the firebase the insult was so trivial that no one remembered what it was or which side delivered it but the troops came together in two gangs. In the center they were nose to nose, shouting, shoving, cursing; on the edges of the mobs individual soldiers threw punches, wrestled on the ground, attempted to claw out eyes or bite off ears. There wasn’t much else to do except occasionally fire across the DMZ and hope that the PAVN didn’t return fire. It was like being in a submarine with the same scenery, the same faces, the same annoying guy who spat on his glasses and cleaned them with his fingers for a year.
The officers remained in their hootches. Sarge had forced his way to the maw of the anger and began ordering troops back to their hootches. The lifers went first because a charge of disobedience would end a military career. The AAs disbursed because there was no one to fight but there was no way to disburse the seething rage that they were fighting to free Vietnamese the way they had fought to free the French, the Scandinavians, Burmese, Chinese when no one was fighting for their freedom. Sarge was the only one who could contain their fear, frustration, loneliness, despair, futility, boredom and pain that they directed at him.
Sarge found a grenade pin on his door with a scribbled message. “This time you got the pin; I got the grenade. Next time I get the pin.” One morning he had opened his door to find a claymore mine that would have shredded him and his hootch if it had been triggered. He forgot his soap on his way to the shower and when he turned back to get it the shower blew up without him.
Sarge didn’t know who or which side wanted to kill him and he had seventeen more days in Vietnam. If he survived he would return home to the same war on a different scale.